Families & Facets

Aldehydes are synthetic compounds produced in the lab, available in many forms. Recognised by metallic, oily, slightly heated, orange-tinged and soapy smells. In a fragrance, aldehydes add strength and freshness — typically paired with florals to create a light, energetic, sparkling impression. Mostly in the top notes. Chanel No.5 (1921) is the classical aldehyde-floral.

Natural amber is a tree resin that begins as a liquid and crystallises through air oxidation — yet real amber is not used in perfumery. The 'amber facet' is a balsamic chord built from vanilla, benzoin, musk, labdanum. The most famous amber accord in perfume history is Guerlain's Shalimar — a legendary signature. Amber creates a second-skin sensation, sensual and quite addictive.

The Leather facet is animalic and sensual — sweet, warm, feline. Fragrances built around leather amplify luxury, comparable to a fine fur. Historical origin: leather scents emerged from 17th-century French glovemakers who perfumed their leather gloves to mask the chamois smell. A strong personality, often the preference of connoisseurs.

The Spicy facet is sassy, dramatic, bright. Adds warmth with exotic and impertinent touches. Common spices: cinnamon, cardamom, pink pepper, ginger, nutmeg. Often layered with woody tones for an enveloping finish. Serge Lutens and Yves Saint Laurent (Opium, 1977) are perfumers and houses strongly associated with this facet.

The Fruity facet brings the distinctive character of fruit into compositions — peach, pear, apricot, blackcurrant, pineapple, apple. Largely a lab-synthesised family (fresh fruit is hard to extract). Fruity adds an abundant, sensual feel. Often paired with floral or gourmet to produce modern feminine fragrances.

A Floral bouquet is not a single flower but several flowers woven together. Unlike a soliflore, the bouquet feels multi-layered and rich. Can combine rose + jasmine + ylang-ylang + tuberose, sometimes accented with aldehydic, fruity, or spicy notes for complexity.

The Gourmet facet was pioneered by Angel (Thierry Mugler, 1992) — the first fragrance to bring edible ingredients into perfumery: vanilla, chocolate, caramel, praline, fruit. Gourmet pairs sweetness with floral or woody supporting notes. Popular for its indulgent, edible quality.

The Marine facet represents the element of water. Natural oils in this family are rare — mostly synthetic molecules (Calone, Helional) developed since the 1990s. Marine evokes coolness, openness, the sea, ozonic air. Cool Water (Davidoff, 1988) and L'Eau d'Issey (Issey Miyake, 1992) were pioneering compositions.

Musk is one of the most alluring scents. Traditionally extracted from musk deer — but synthetic since the 1980s for conservation reasons. Musk tends to bind other elements of a blend, leaving a light wake. It can serve as a core base note or simply stabilise the structure. Ambrette seed is the only natural plant oil offering a true musky character.

The New Freshness facet emerged in the 1990s — cool, brisk, invigorating. Combines citrus, dihydromyrcenol (a synthetic molecule), aldehydes, and mint. Unlike pure citrus, this facet is more lasting and extends past the top notes. Cool Water was the pioneer.

The Powdery facet immediately recalls iris (orris). One of the most distinctive perfumery materials, orris is a paste made from iris rhizomes aged for years. A powdery facet brings softness, smoothness, comfort. Heliotrope and almond also contribute powdery character.

The Green facet evokes nature, freshly cut from a garden. Galbanum is the classical signature — a resin with a sharp green note. Crushed grass, violet leaf, fig leaf also belong here. Character: fresh, earthy, slightly acidic. Brings an energetic, uplifting lift. Usually a top note.

Lavender holds its own family due to its outsized role in perfumery (cologne and fougère in particular). Seldom appears alone in feminine fragrances; in masculine compositions it pairs with aromatic notes — rosemary, sage, oakmoss, bergamot, patchouli, vetiver, neroli, orange blossom. English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is the finest grade.

The Tobacco facet builds on the imagery of cigarettes — all negative associations must be excluded. The note in this area must feel inviting yet still part of nature's advantage. Tobacco adds a sense of luxury and relaxation. Frequently in masculine perfumes, but skilfully integrated in some feminine compositions too. Sweet tobacco carries honey, hay subtones.

Animalic notes are warm and sensual, with occasional flowery facets, adding depth to most structures. The family has 5 sub-facets: Musk (from musk deer — synthetic since the 1980s), Ambergris (sperm whale concretion — rare), Civet (African civet glands — natural source now restricted), Castoreum (North American beaver glands), Hyraceum & Beeswax. Most modern animalic notes are synthetic for conservation reasons.