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Oakmoss

Rêu Sồi

Evernia prunastri

Tree moss

Parmeliaceae · Địa y trên cây sồi · Lichen on oak trees · Solvent-extracted (concrete, absolute)


Oakmoss essential oil (Evernia prunastri) — botanical illustration
Evernia prunastri

Safety

IFRA restricted · Skin sensitization

Oakmoss contains atranol and chloroatranol, two strong skin sensitizers. IFRA restricts use to very low concentrations in fragrance.

EU also restricts, oakmoss and treemoss are on the list of allergens that must be declared on labels above 0.001 percent in leave-on or 0.01 percent in rinse-off products.

Very low dermal concentration recommended.

No pregnancy data, avoid use.


Usage guidelines

IFRA limit
0.1 percent (after removal of atranol/chloroatranol)
EU label declaration
Above 0.001 percent leave-on must be declared
Storage
Dark, sealed, refrigerated

Chemistry

Volatile constituents
Methyl β-orcinolcarboxylate15.0 – 25.0 %
Atranorin5.0 – 15.0 %
Atranol2.0 – 8.0 %
Chloroatranol0.1 – 2.0 %
Methyl β-orsellinate3.0 – 10.0 %
Ethyl haematommate1.0 – 5.0 %

Botanical source

Evernia prunastri is a lichen growing on oak bark and some other tree trunks in temperate Europe and North America.

Concrete is solvent-extracted with hexane, then alcohol washing yields the absolute. Main production in France, Provence region.

Family Parmeliaceae (a lichen, not a higher plant).


Notes

Oakmoss is a classical base note in perfumery, especially in the chypre, fougère, and oriental families.

After EU and IFRA tightened limits from 2003, many classical perfumes had to be reformulated. 'Low-atranol' or 'molecular distilled' oakmoss is a version with the allergen reduced.

Characteristic aroma: woody, earthy, damp, dried-grass, with metallic depth.