Top notes トップノート
Light, fast-evaporating molecules. The opening of a fragrance — the first impression on application. Top notes typically fade before the full structure develops.
Scent chart
Tháp hương 3 tầng 香りのピラミッドEssential oils evaporate at different rates. In perfumery, aroma molecules are grouped into three tiers by evaporation time: Top notes open, Middle notes form the heart, Base notes linger longest. A complete fragrance typically uses all three.
This page sorts oils from our 400-oil library into the three tiers, with reference evaporation times. Useful when blending or analysing the structure of a finished fragrance.
Three tiers
Middle notes ミドルノート
Medium-weight molecules. The heart of the fragrance, defining its main character. Emerges as the top notes evaporate.
Florals
Warm spices
Aromatic herbs
Tea-chamomile
Base notes ベースノート
Heavy, slow-evaporating molecules. The lasting base of the fragrance, acting as a fixative that holds the whole structure on skin or fragrance strip. Reveals fully after several hours.
Woody
Sandalwood East Indian Sandalwood Australian Cedarwood Atlas Cedarwood Virginian Vetiver Patchouli Guaiacwood
Resinous
Tobacco-leather
Musky
Using the pyramid when blending
The classic ratio is 30% top + 50% middle + 20% base. This produces a balanced fragrance suited to classical perfumery. Adjust as needed: more top for a cologne, more base for a heavy oriental.
Build a blend from base up — base first, then middle, then top. Opposite to the evaporation order. Reasoning: base notes are heavy and change little on contact with air; top notes oxidise readily so add them last to protect.
See Blending 101 for a detailed beginner guide.
Scent character map
Beyond tier-based classification (top/middle/base), Lê Mai uses a second map to locate an oil — the scent character map. It is organised around five central families and surrounded by character descriptors.
Used alongside the pyramid: the pyramid answers when a scent appears, while the character map answers how it feels. The two views complement each other when blending.
5 core families · descriptors around them · representative oils on the outer ring
5 families + character descriptors
| Family | Character descriptors | Representative oils |
|---|---|---|
| Citrus |
Fresh · Lemon · Orange · Sweet · Exotic | Bergamot Lemon Mandarin Orange Sweet Grapefruit |
| Floral |
Floral · Exotic · Distinct · Herbaceous · Earthy | Rose Jasmine Neroli Ylang Ylang Geranium |
| Herbal |
Floral · Leafy · Misty · Mediterranean · Earthy · Piney | Rosemary Basil Clary Sage Marjoram Tarragon |
| Woody |
Earthy · Rich · Warm · Spicy · Resinous · Piney | Sandalwood Cedarwood Vetiver Patchouli Hinoki |
| Oriental |
Sweet · Vanilla · Musky · Soft Vanillic · Resinous · Warm | Vanilla Benzoin Myrrh Frankincense Labdanum |
For detailed definitions of each descriptor (Fresh, Exotic, Earthy, Rich, Resinous, Sweet...), see the facet glossary on the Families & Facets page.