Wax is an ester of long-chain fatty acid with long-chain alcohol, or a long-chain hydrocarbon. Unlike the triglycerides of vegetable oils, wax stays solid at room temperature, melts at higher temperature, does not react with moisture, and provides firm structure for balms, lips, and candles.
In artisanal soap and cosmetics, wax stabilises emulsions, provides structure for balms and lips, and acts as an emulsifier when combined with borax or lecithin. In candles, wax is the primary material that defines burn time, fragrance throw, glass adhesion, and melt pool.
This page collects the waxes used at Lê Mai for balms, body butters, and candles. Mineral waxes like paraffin are noted but not recommended for natural cosmetics. Vegetable waxes and beeswax take priority.
When making candles or balms, the wax's melt point determines product feel. Beeswax (62-64°C) gives a firm finish; soy (49-58°C) is softer. Carnauba (80-86°C) is the hardest, used for lip balms that must hold shape at room temperature.
Vegetable waxes come from leaves, seeds, and fruits. Candelilla, carnauba, soy, rice bran, sunflower, and hydrogenated olive are common. They produce vegan-friendly products with high melting points and firm structure.
Animal waxes: beeswax (cera alba white, cera flava yellow) is the most common wax, secreted by bees. Lanolin is wool wax from sheep, a semi-occlusive emollient. Both are not vegan.
Mineral waxes: paraffin (from petroleum) and microcrystalline. They are cheap, easy to control, widely used in industrial candles, but are petroleum-derived and do not fit Lê Mai's natural direction.
Some technical ingredients fall in the wax-like group without being true waxes: jojoba (liquid wax ester), cocoa butter, kokum butter (hard butters near the wax boundary). They play similar roles in balm formulation.
Beeswax is secreted by worker bees from abdominal glands, used to build the hive. INCI: Cera Alba (bleached) and Cera Flava (natural yellow). Cera flava retains trace pollen and propolis with a light honey scent. Cera alba is bleached by sun or hydrogen peroxide, scentless, used in formulations that need a neutral base.
Beeswax is a natural emulsifier when paired with borax or lecithin, and a thickener as the ratio rises. A ratio of 1 part beeswax to 4 parts oil gives a moderately firm balm. More oil softens the balm; more beeswax firms it.
Melting point 62 to 65°C. Melt in a bain-marie, never on direct flame. Not for vegan formulation. Substitute candelilla (0.5 parts candelilla equals 1 part beeswax) or carnauba (lower ratio still).
In candles: beeswax burns long (2 to 3 times slower than paraffin), at low temperature, with little soot and natural honey scent. It needs a larger wick to create an adequate melt pool. It can be blended with coconut wax to improve scent throw.
Candelilla wax from Euphorbia cerifera in Mexico. The firmest of vegan waxes, melting point 68 to 73°C. 50 percent hydrocarbons, 28 percent esters and acids. Beeswax substitution ratio: use 0.5 times the weight (since candelilla is firmer). Used in lip balm, mascara, body butter that needs high firmness.
Carnauba wax from leaves of Copernicia prunifera in Brazil. The hardest natural wax, melting point 82 to 86°C. Used in vegan lip balm, mascara polish, top coats. Used at 1 to 5 percent due to high hardness.
Soy wax from hydrogenated soybean oil. Low melting point 49 to 82°C depending on grade. Soft consistency, used mainly in container candles. Hydrogenation may leave trans fat traces, so not recommended for leave-on cosmetics.
Rice bran wax from rice bran oil, melting point 75 to 80°C. Vegan, with good oxidative stability. Used in stick balms, lipsticks, lip glosses, and in premium pillar candles.
Sunflower wax from deodorised sunflower oil. Melting point 74 to 77°C. For refined vegan products, very light scent, near neutral. Used 3 to 10 percent.
Olive wax (hydrogenated olive oil) melting point 73 to 77°C. Creamy white, stable, vegan. Used in body butter that needs a lighter texture than beeswax.
Cocoa butter and kokum butter are not true waxes but their melting points of 32 to 37°C (cocoa) and 35 to 40°C (kokum) create structure when blended with liquid oils. They suit lip balms and body butters that need to melt on contact with skin.
| Wax | Source | Melting point | Vegan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Beeswax (cera alba/flava) | Honey bee | 62 – 65°C | No |
| Candelilla | Euphorbia cerifera | 68 – 73°C | Yes |
| Carnauba | Copernicia prunifera (leaf) | 82 – 86°C | Yes |
| Soy wax | Glycine max (hydrogenated) | 49 – 82°C | Yes |
| Rice bran wax | Oryza sativa | 75 – 80°C | Yes |
| Sunflower wax | Helianthus annus (hydrogenated) | 74 – 77°C | Yes |
| Olive wax | Olea europaea (hydrogenated) | 73 – 77°C | Yes |
| Coconut wax | Cocos nucifera (hydrogenated) | 40 – 50°C | Yes |
| Lanolin | Sheep wool | 38 – 44°C | No |
| Cocoa butter | Theobroma cacao | 32 – 37°C | Yes |
| Paraffin | Petroleum | 46 – 68°C | Yes (avoid) |
Anhydrous balms contain liquid oil, butter, and wax. The wax ratio determines firmness. Firm lip balm needs 20 to 25 percent wax. Medium body balm 10 to 15 percent. Soft salve 5 to 10 percent. Massage bars 15 to 20 percent wax plus 30 to 40 percent butter.
When substituting candelilla for beeswax, use 0.5 times the weight. When substituting carnauba, use 0.3 times. Test small batches first by pouring a drop on a cold plate, waiting 1 minute, and checking final firmness.
Whipped body butter blends butters (shea, mango, cocoa) with liquid oil and 2 to 5 percent wax, whipped on cooling. The wax stabilises the whipped structure against melt-down.
Deodorant sticks and stick balms need high firmness to hold shape when pushed up: 15 to 25 percent wax plus 20 to 30 percent butter plus oil. Carnauba or candelilla provides structural rigidity.
When formulating, melt wax and butter first at 70 to 80°C, then add liquid oil, drop to 60°C before adding essential oils. Essential oils evaporate at high temperatures and lose scent.
| Product | Wax (% of total) | Butter (% of total) |
|---|---|---|
| Firm lip balm | 20 – 25 % | 10 – 20 % |
| Soft lip balm | 15 – 20 % | 20 – 30 % |
| Body balm / Body balm | 10 – 15 % | 20 – 30 % |
| Soft salve | 5 – 10 % | 10 – 20 % |
| Massage bar / Massage bar | 15 – 20 % | 30 – 40 % |
| Deodorant stick / Deodorant stick | 15 – 25 % | 20 – 30 % |
| Whipped body butter | 2 – 5 % | 50 – 70 % |
A candle consists of wax, wick, and fragrance. Wax is the primary material that determines how the candle burns. Soy, coconut, rice bran, and beeswax are the common natural waxes for artisanal candles. Paraffin burns fast with strong scent throw but is petroleum-derived and produces more soot.
Beeswax candles burn longest with little soot and a faint honey base note. They suit dinner candles and pillar candles.
Soy candles have a low melting point, suit container candles, with moderate scent throw. Easy to work with for beginners.
Coconut wax (hydrogenated) is soft with a clean melt pool and the strongest scent throw among natural waxes. Usually blended with soy or beeswax to balance firmness.
Rice bran wax serves premium pillar candles, with a high melting point, good shape hold, and even melting.
Common wax blends: 70 percent soy plus 30 percent coconut for container candles with good scent throw. 50 percent beeswax plus 50 percent coconut for natural pillar candles.
The wick is the fibre core that draws molten wax up to the flame. The wrong wick gives a flame too high (soot, tunnel) or too low (drowning, insufficient melt pool). A correct wick lets the melt pool reach the container edge within the first 2 to 3 hours of burning.
Cotton wicks (CD, ECO series) are common for soy and coconut wax. Soft, stable flame, low soot.
Wood wicks (cherry or cedar) crackle while burning and give stronger scent throw. They suit coconut and soy wax and need a metal holder.
Beeswax needs a larger wick because the wax is dense and the melting point is high. LX series or square braided cotton works.
Rule: narrow containers use small wicks, wide containers use a large wick or two wicks. Test burn matters: light for 4 continuous hours, measure melt pool depth (1 to 1.5 cm is standard) and width (reaching the container edge).
Larger wicks are not always better. An oversized wick produces a tall flame, soot, and overheats the container (potentially cracking glass).
Fragrance load is the percent of fragrance in the wax. Natural waxes typically hold 6 to 10 percent fragrance (essential oil or fragrance oil). Above this range, fragrance fails to bind, sweats out, or destabilises wick burning.
Citrus essentials (Bergamot, Lemon) flash off fast and throw poorly in candles unless blended with heavier notes. Base notes that suit candles: Vetiver, Sandalwood, Patchouli, Cedarwood Atlas.
Common middle notes for candles: Lavender, Geranium, Rose Damask, Ylang ylang. Vanilla absolute is an effective fixative that extends scent throw.
Add essential oils at 60 to 65°C, after the wax has melted but before pouring. Too hot evaporates the oils; too cool prevents even mixing.
Cure time: a freshly poured candle needs 2 to 4 weeks to stabilise before optimal burning. Wax and fragrance need time to bind, and scent throw reaches full level after cure. Soy needs 2 weeks, beeswax 3 to 4 weeks, coconut 1 to 2 weeks.
Dry waxes (blocks, pellets) store in sealed bags, in a cool place 18 to 22°C, away from sun. Beeswax may form a powdery bloom over long storage, which is not spoilage; gentle warming dissolves it.
Lanolin is sensitive to heat and oxygen, store in sealed bottles in a cool place. Shelf life 1 to 2 years.
When melting wax, never place the pan on direct flame. A bain-marie or double boiler is safest. Overheated wax produces smoke and a serious fire hazard.
Finished candles: store in a cool place away from sun (UV bleaches natural wax colour and degrades essential oils). Sealed containers preserve scent.
When burning: trim the wick to 5 mm before each lighting. Burn at least 2 hours on the first lighting so the melt pool reaches the edge. Do not burn for more than 4 continuous hours. Avoid flammable items nearby, strong drafts, or heat-sensitive surfaces.
Wax heated above 90°C can self-ignite. Always use a thermometer when melting wax for candles.