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Scent wheel

Bánh xe mùi hương

The scent wheel is a visual taxonomy of essential oils and aroma molecules, organised by family and facet. It serves as a mental map for perfumers, cosmetic makers, and anyone learning where a given scent sits in the larger field.

The version below follows a 21-family structure from modern perfumery. Each family links to representative oils in our 400-oil library.


Scent wheel of 21 families — Lê Mai Library

21 families · 4 concentric rings: mood → family → facet → representative oils


01How to read

The wheel has four concentric layers. Read from outside in: the outermost band is the colour-coded family ring. Next comes the 21 family names. Inside that, each family is divided into smaller facettes. The innermost ring carries the mood word evoked by each family.

Adjacent families on the wheel share a sensory closeness and tend to harmonise. Families that sit opposite each other create contrast. This is the foundational principle when composing a fragrance.

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0221 fragrance families

Each family has a distinct character. The oils listed below are representative entries from our 400-oil library — click any chip to open the full profile.

Marine / Aquatic

Sea-air, briny, expansive. Mostly synthetic molecules (Calone, Helional). Natural oils are rare in this family.

Representative oils

— not yet in the library

Fruity

Soft sweet fruit flesh: peach, pear, blackcurrant, apricot. Mostly lactones, esters, absolutes.

Representative oils

Aldehydic

Fatty aldehydes (C-8, C-9, C-10) combined with florals — the clean lift of Chanel No.5.

Representative oils

Gourmet

Sugar, vanilla, chocolate, caramel. Edible, dessert-like.

Representative oils

Lavender

Its own family due to its historical weight in cologne and fougère structures.

Representative oils

Fougère

“Fern-like”. Classic masculine accord: lavender + oakmoss + coumarin + geranium.

Representative oils

Herbaceous

Soft green herbs, not sharp: tarragon, marjoram, helichrysum.

Representative oils

Tobacco

Dry tobacco leaf, honey, dry leather. Tonka and cistus often appear.

Representative oils

Powdery

Talc-like, soft powder. Orris (iris root), violet leaf, heliotrope.

Representative oils

Animalic

Civet, castoreum, ambergris — traditional animal sources. Modern perfumery uses synthetic substitutes.

Representative oils

Musky

Musks: heavy, long-wearing molecules linked to skin-scent. Mostly synthetics (nitro musks, macrocyclic, polycyclic).

Representative oils

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03Mood ring

The innermost ring pairs each family with a mood word it commonly evokes. This is the psychological angle of scent — useful when briefing a product or translating brand messaging into olfactory language.

Refreshing→ Marine
Original→ Citrus
Romantic→ Fruity
Radiant→ Floral
Precious→ Floral
Mysterious→ Amber
Passionate→ Amber
Seductive→ Amber
Stimulating→ Gourmet
Masculine→ Fougere
Vitalizing→ Chypre
Classical→ Aromatic
Natural→ Green
Sensual→ Spicy
Classical→ Leather
Luxurious→ Musky
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04Practical use

When composing a fragrance, the wheel poses three foundational questions: 1/ Which family is the main axis? 2/ Which two adjacent families extend the richness? 3/ Is an opposing family needed to create contrast?

When substituting an oil (see the Substitution chart), pick from the same family or an adjacent one on the wheel. Within facette work, stay close to the original facette.

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