Rose (Damask)

Rose otto is classified as GRAS by the US FDA. Methyl eugenol may be present (0.5-3.3 percent), a suspected carcinogen.

Maximum dermal: 0.6 percent. IFRA limit 0.012 percent. EU limit 0.006 percent.

Maximum daily oral dose: 21 mg.

Very low skin sensitization risk. In 1,483 Japanese dermatitis patients suspected of cosmetic sensitivity (99 percent female): only 0.4 percent reacted positively to 2 percent Bulgarian rose oil.

Not phototoxic.

Rat study: oral Bulgarian rose otto 0.05 mL/kg/day for 6 months showed no hepatotoxic signs, equivalent to under 1.5 mg/kg/day methyleugenol, 150 times the methyleugenol safety limit. Geraniol in rose otto may counteract methyleugenol carcinogenicity.

Notable anticarcinogenic activity: cytotoxic to prostate, lung, and breast cancer cells with IC50 of 0.04, 0.05, and 0.07 percent respectively.

Can be used in pregnancy at normal doses, Not contraindicated.

Rosa × damascena is a classical hybrid rose, cultivated in Bulgaria, Turkey, Iran, and Morocco. Bulgaria and Turkey are the two traditional benchmarks for quality and volume.

Damask flowers must be hand-picked at dawn, once the sun rises, oil content drops rapidly. Each picker handles about 30-40 kg of flowers per day.

Oil production: about 3,000-5,000 kg of fresh flowers are needed for 1 kg of rose otto (distilled). Oil yield is extremely low, 0.02-0.04 percent of flower weight.

Two main product forms: Rose otto (steam-distilled, more crystalline aroma) and Rose absolute (solvent-extracted, deeper aroma but higher methyl eugenol).

Bulgarian rose otto has a signature cocoa-honey character from the Rose Valley region (Kazanlak). Turkish rose otto from Isparta has a fresher note.

Small production occurs in Iran and Morocco but is not commercially exported.

Family Rosaceae.

Damask rose oil is frequently adulterated due to high price, premium rose otto can reach 8,000-15,000 USD/kg.

Common adulterants: ethanol, 2-phenylethanol, geranium oil fractions, rhodinol. Reconstructions with damascones, β-ionone, alkenes/alkanes, (-)-citronellol, and other rose alcohols are mixed in or sold as rose oil.

Verify quality by chiral GC-MS analysis. The enantiomer ratio of (-)-citronellol and damascones is a key indicator. 2D chromatographic analysis can distinguish natural from synthetic.

Bulgarian rose otto has its own ISO standard, Kazanlak Rose Valley carries PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) certification.

True damask rose aroma: pure floral rose, deep, with a cocoa-honey note not replicable by synthesis. Synthetic rose captures only part of the aromatic spectrum.

Damask rose is among the most classical and expensive essential oils in perfumery. Bulgarian damask rose cultivation dates to the 17th century.

In perfumery, rose otto is an irreplaceable heart-base note. Thousands of fragrances use rose otto or rose absolute as a main ingredient.

In aromatherapy, rose otto has been studied for anxiolytic effects, mood support, and gynecological/pregnancy support. One of the few GRAS essential oils that can be used in pregnancy.

In cosmetics, rose otto and rose absolute are premium ingredients for fine fragrance, anti-ageing creams, premium serums, and body oils. Suited to sensitive skin.

Damascones, the signature aroma compounds of rose, were discovered in rose oil in 1970 by Edouard Demole at Firmenich. Damascones revolutionized modern perfumery, many fragrances since the 1970s use damascones (natural or synthetic).

In the Lê Mai brand context, rose otto is a potential signature ingredient, aligned with quiet luxury positioning and feminine sensibility.