Chypre: cam bergamot trên nền rêu sồi, labdanum và hoắc hương

Before 1917 the word Chypre was already attached to several scented preparations. Poudre de Chypre was a scented powder based on oakmoss; secondary sources describe it as a hair and wig powder of early modern Europe. During the nineteenth century several houses sold products called Chypre. They shared no common formula.

François Coty released Chypre in 1917. Its recorded structure is bergamot at the top, rose and jasmine in the heart, and oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli in the base. The contrast between the bright sour note of bergamot and the damp, bitter, faintly smoky oakmoss base became the identifying mark. Other houses soon produced variations on the same frame.

In 1919 Jacques Guerlain released Mitsouko. Its peach note comes mainly from undecalactone, a lactone traded as aldehyde C14 although it is not an aldehyde, discovered in 1908. Mitsouko opened the fruity branch of the family. From there the Chypre family split into several branches: with aldehydes, with leather, with the green note of galbanum, with aromatic herbs.

The original 1917 Chypre is kept by the Osmothèque in Versailles; the commercial product is discontinued.

The top of a classic Chypre is citrus, mainly cold-pressed bergamot. Bergamot carries linalyl acetate and linalool, giving a lightly sour, slightly floral note. This layer is the first to fade.

The heart is floral. Rose and jasmine are the most common; some Chypres add orange flower, ylang-ylang or orris. The floral layer does not stand alone but links the bright top to the dark base.

The base is where a Chypre is recognised. Oakmoss gives a damp, earthy, slightly salty note with an ink-like facet. Labdanum gives a warm resinous note, slightly leathery, slightly ambery. Patchouli gives an earthy, woody note, faintly camphoraceous when fresh and softer with age. Many formulas add vetiver, musks and sometimes animalic notes.

After 2000 many formulas cut oakmoss sharply and relied more on patchouli, woods and synthetics. The trade press often calls this group modern Chypre. It is a common term, not a subfamily in the SFP table.

Oakmoss is the lichen Evernia prunastri growing on oak, harvested mainly in the Balkans and Morocco. Oakmoss and treemoss (Evernia furfuracea) contain atranol and chloroatranol, two strong skin sensitisers. Extracts of both mosses are on the list of fragrance allergens that must be labelled under the EU Cosmetics Regulation.

Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 placed atranol, chloroatranol and HICC in Annex II, the list of substances prohibited in cosmetics. From 23 August 2019 new products containing them could not be placed on the EU market. From 23 August 2021 existing products also had to be withdrawn.

The IFRA Standard for oakmoss extracts requires atranol and chloroatranol each below 100 ppm in the extract, and caps the extract in finished products; for fine fragrance (category 4) the cap is 0.1%. Oakmoss in use today is therefore a low-atranol grade. It smells lighter and has less of the inky facet of older grades.

Patchouli and bergamot carry their own rules. Patchouli oil (Pogostemon cablin) and bergamot peel oil are both on the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. New products placed on the EU market after 31 July 2026 must comply; products already on the market have until 31 July 2028. Cold-pressed bergamot also contains furocoumarins such as bergapten, so IFRA limits its use in leave-on skin products; furocoumarin-free (FCF) bergamot is used to stay clear of that limit.

The SFP divides the Chypre family into seven subfamilies: D1 Chypre, D2 Fruity Chypre (Chypre Fruité), D3 Floral Aldehydic Chypre (Chypre Fleuri Aldéhydé), D4 Leather Chypre (Chypre Cuir), D5 Aromatic Chypre (Chypre Aromatique), D6 Green Chypre (Chypre Vert) and D7 Floral Chypre (Chypre Fleuri).

Each name describes the facet added to the core axis. D2 adds peach or plum lactones. D4 adds a leather note from birch tar or quinolines. D6 adds galbanum and leafy notes. The SFP website publishes the subfamily names but does not list specific perfumes for each; those lists are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums, last updated in 2016. Examples on this page are therefore indicative.

In principle the Chypre frame can be built entirely from natural materials, because its three pillars are themselves natural. Bergamot sits at the top; for leave-on products the FCF grade avoids the furocoumarin issue. Rose and jasmine as absolutes or rose otto form the heart.

The base needs three roles: something damp and bitter (low-atranol oakmoss, or treemoss), something warm and resinous (labdanum, cistus), and something earthy and woody (patchouli). Where oakmoss is limited, vetiver and aged patchouli can keep part of the earthy, dry impression. Clary sage carries sclareol and adds a dry ambery touch to the base.

The difficulty is balance: bergamot evaporates quickly while oakmoss and labdanum last for hours, so after some time only the base remains. Every material must be checked against current IFRA limits and the EU allergen list before use in a product. This page gives no formula percentages.