Spicy Citrus is subfamily A2 of the Hesperidic family in the SFP table. It keeps the fresh top of bergamot, lemon and orange, then sets a spice layer directly below: cardamom, ginger, pepper, coriander seed, sometimes clove, cinnamon, nutmeg.
The spices come in two kinds. Fresh spices such as cardamom, ginger and pink pepper extend the brightness of the citrus. Warm spices such as clove and cinnamon add heat and thicken the heart.
In 1951 Edmond Roudnitska composed Eau d'Hermès. It sets citrus and petitgrain over cardamom, cumin and cinnamon, on a base of woods and leather. Because the leather is prominent, many tables place Eau d'Hermès in the Leather family; it is named here for its citrus and spice pairing.
In composition: citrus brings limonene, linalyl acetate and citral. Cardamom is rich in 1,8-cineole and alpha terpinyl acetate, close enough to citrus to join it smoothly. Black pepper brings beta caryophyllene and terpenes; its woody bite comes partly from rotundone. Clove and cinnamon carry eugenol and cinnamaldehyde.
Rules to note: eugenol, cinnamal (cinnamaldehyde) and isoeugenol are on the earlier list of 26 allergens; clove oil, cinnamon bark oil and beta caryophyllene are named on the expanded list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. New products placed on the EU market after 31 July 2026 must be labelled according to it. In addition, cold-pressed citrus oils such as bergamot, expressed lemon and grapefruit are under IFRA phototoxicity limits in leave-on products; FCF bergamot and distilled lime contain far less furocoumarin.
The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.
A2 sits between A1 classic Eau de Cologne and A3 Aromatic Citrus. When warm spices and resins dominate, the scent leaves the Hesperidic family and approaches the Amber family or spicy woods.
| Layer | Materials |
|---|---|
| Top | Bergamot, Lemon (expressed), Sweet orange, Pink pepper, Limonene |
| Middle | Cardamom, Ginger, Coriander seed, Black pepper, Clove bud, Nutmeg |
| Base | Vetiver, Cedarwood (Virginian), Labdanum |
This branch can be built fully with natural materials. Top: FCF bergamot, lemon, sweet orange, pink pepper. Heart: cardamom, ginger, coriander seed, a little black pepper. Base: vetiver, cedar and labdanum to hold the spices longer.
Cardamom and coriander seed are the easiest bridges, since both already carry a citrus facet. Clove and cinnamon are very strong, need only small amounts and carry many regulatory constraints. Check IFRA limits and the EU allergen list for each material. This page gives no formula percentages.
| Name | House | Year | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Eau d'Hermès | Hermès | 1951 | Edmond Roudnitska. Citrus over cardamom, cumin and cinnamon; often classed as leather. |
| Citrus constituents · Limonene · Linalyl acetate · Citral | Top layer. |
| Spice constituents · Cineole 1 8 · Terpinyl acetate · Caryophyllene beta · Rotundone · Eugenol · Cinnamaldehyde | Cardamom, pepper, clove, cinnamon. |
| Cam chanh · Bergamot fcf · Lemon expressed · Orange sweet | Top layer. |
| Fresh spices · Cardamon · Ginger · Coriander seed · Pepper black · Pepper pink | Bridge to the citrus. |
| Warm spices · Clove bud · Cinnamon bark · Nutmeg east indian | Use in small amounts. |
Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.
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