Amber Woody is subfamily E4 of the Woody family in the SFP table. As the SFP describes it, the base is made of warm, rich notes such as vanilla, coumarin, labdanum (cistus), patchouli and sandalwood. E4 is thus where the Woody family moves close to the Amber family (Ambré, family F).
The word ambré in the name is easily confused. The first meaning is the classic amber structure: labdanum, vanilla, balsams. The second is the group of synthetic ambery woody molecules such as Ambrox, Iso E Super and Karanal, which feel dry, mineral and transparent. The SFP description refers to the first meaning; the Woody family page notes the influence of the second on this branch, and many modern woody perfumes use both.
The base uses labdanum, the resin of Cistus ladanifer, with tonka or coumarin, vanilla or vanillin, patchouli and sandalwood. The heart often has cedar, vetiver, guaiacwood, sometimes orris. The top may be bergamot, cardamom or pink pepper. Benzoin adds resinous sweetness.
Ambrox was synthesised by Max Stoll and M. Hinder at Firmenich in 1950 from sclareol, a compound found in clary sage. Iso E Super was discovered by John B. Hall and James M. Sanders of IFF in 1973. Karanal was developed by Quest International and now belongs to Givaudan. Firmenich's Norlimbanol, the same molecule as Symrise's Timberol, gives a very dry ambery wood. In 2006 Escentric Molecules released Molecule 01 by Geza Schoen, made of Iso E Super alone; it is often cited when discussing ambery woody molecules, not the vanilla and labdanum structure the SFP describes.
Coumarin was already a labelled allergen and has its own IFRA Standard. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 adds vanillin, sclareol, santalol, patchouli oil, Santalum album sandalwood oil and tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes (Iso E Super) to the allergen list. Norlimbanol has an IFRA restriction standard published in 2023. Labdanum and Ambrox have no dedicated IFRA Standard in the 51st Amendment.
The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.
| Layer | Materials |
|---|---|
| Top | Bergamot, Cardamom, Pink pepper |
| Middle | Atlas cedarwood, Guaiacwood, Iris (orris), Vetiver |
| Base | Labdanum, Labdanum resinoid, Tonka bean, Vani, Benzoin, Patchouli, Indian sandalwood, Coumarin, Ambroxide |
The structure the SFP describes is easy to build with natural materials. Labdanum or cistus gives a dry amber with a leathery touch; tonka gives coumarin; vanilla or benzoin gives sweetness; patchouli and sandalwood give warm wood; cedar and vetiver give dryness.
The dry, mineral, far-reaching effect of Ambrox and Iso E Super has no natural equivalent. Clary sage carries sclareol, the starting material of Ambrox, but does not itself give that odour; ambrette and labdanum suggest only part of it. Total coumarin must be calculated against IFRA limits. This page gives no formula percentages.
| Amber and ambery woody constituents · Coumarin · Vanillin · Sclareol · Santalol · Ambroxide · Iso e super · Karanal · Norlimbanol | Coumarin, vanillin, sclareol, Ambrox, Iso E Super. |
| Amber base · Labdanum · Cistus · Tonka · Vanilla · Benzoin | The base the SFP describes for E4. |
| Woods · Patchouli · Sandalwood east indian · Cedarwood atlas · Vetiver | Patchouli, sandalwood, cedar, vetiver. |
| Suggests the ambery woody part · Clary sage · Ambrette | Sclareol and plant musk. |
Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.
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