Aromatic Chypre

Two perfumes are often cited. Chanel's Pour Monsieur (1955), composed by Henri Robert, sets lemon, petitgrain and neroli over cardamom and basil on an oakmoss and vetiver base. Clinique's Aromatics Elixir (1971), composed by Bernard Chant, combines clary sage and chamomile with rose and a large share of patchouli over oakmoss.

In composition: clary sage brings linalyl acetate, linalool and sclareol; lavender brings linalool and linalyl acetate; rosemary brings 1,8-cineole and camphor; Roman chamomile brings esters with apple and hay notes. Patchouli brings patchoulol.

Rules to note: oakmoss used today must be a low-atranol grade: Regulation (EU) 2017/1410 prohibits atranol and chloroatranol, and the IFRA Standard caps oakmoss extract in finished products. Lavender oil and extract, patchouli oil, bergamot peel oil, linalyl acetate, camphor and sclareol are named on the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545.

The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.

D5 is close to the Fougère family, since both use lavender and oakmoss; the difference is that Fougère is built around coumarin, while D5 rests on labdanum and patchouli. D5 also approaches A3 Aromatic Citrus when the top grows larger.

This branch can be built almost fully with natural materials: FCF bergamot, lemon and petitgrain at the top; clary sage, lavender, rosemary, Roman chamomile and artemisia in the heart; low-atranol oakmoss, patchouli, labdanum and vetiver in the base.

Roman chamomile and wormwood are very strong and need only small amounts. Wormwood contains thujone; check current rules before use. Check IFRA limits and the EU allergen list for each material. This page gives no formula percentages.