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Floral Fruity Amber

Hổ phách hoa trái cây: mận, mơ, anh đào gặp hoa trắng trên nền vanilla

Floral Fruity Amber is subfamily F6 (Ambré Fleuri Fruité) of the Amber family in the SFP table. It adds a fruit layer, such as plum, apricot, peach, cherry or berries, to a floral structure over an amber base.

Most fruit notes in perfumery do not come from the fruit itself but from synthetic molecules, or from flowers and buds with a fruity facet. The branch borders F1: when the fruit is candy-sweet and the vanilla base very heavy, the scent is easily described as gourmand.


01Structure and materials

The main fruit notes are gamma undecalactone (peach, apricot), the damascones (berries, plum, cooked apple, with a rose facet) and ethyl maltol (jam, burnt sugar). Among natural materials, osmanthus gives an apricot facet, davana a dried fruit facet and blackcurrant bud a cassis note.

In 1997 Annick Menardo composed Lolita Lempicka: anise and violet at the top; liquorice, cherry and orris in the heart; vanilla, tonka and praline in the base. In 1998 Dior released Hypnotic Poison, also composed by Annick Menardo, with plum and apricot at the top, tuberose and jasmine in the heart, and vanilla and musk in the base. Both are often cited at the border between F6 and F1 because of their heavy vanilla.

The rose ketones group, which includes the damascones, is added to the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, together with vanillin, jasmine oil and rose oil. Gamma undecalactone and ethyl maltol are named neither in the old list of 26 nor among the 56 new entries.

The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.

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02Structure

Layer Materials
TopMandarin, Bergamot, Blackcurrant bud, Gamma undecalactone
MiddleTuberose, Hoa nhài sambac, Damask rose, Osmanthus, Davana, Iris (orris), Beta damascone
BaseVanilla, Tonka bean, Benzoin, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Ethyl maltol, Vanillin
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03A natural approach

The fruit notes are the hardest part to build with natural materials. Osmanthus absolute, davana, blackcurrant bud and rose can suggest apricot, dried fruit, cassis and berries; the floral layer uses tuberose, jasmine sambac and ylang ylang; the base uses vanilla, tonka and benzoin.

The candy-like juiciness of synthetic lactones and damascones has no natural equivalent; these materials suggest only part of it. The EU allergen list must be checked for rose, jasmine and vanilla. This page gives no formula percentages.

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04Landmarks

Name House Year Note
Lolita Lempicka1997Annick Menardo. Anise, liquorice and cherry over vanilla, tonka and praline.
Hypnotic PoisonDior1998Annick Menardo. Plum and apricot, tuberose and jasmine over vanilla and musk.
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05Related molecules

Fruity molecules · Undecalactone gamma · Damascone beta · Damascone alpha · Ethyl maltolPeach, apricot, berries, jam.
Sweet base · Vanillin · CoumarinVanillin, coumarin.
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06In the library

Natural fruity facets · Osmanthus · Davana · Blackcurrant budApricot, dried fruit, cassis.
Floral layer · Tuberose · Jasmine sambac · Rose damask · Ylang ylangWhite flowers and rose.
Amber base · Vanilla · Tonka · BenzoinVanilla, coumarin, resins.
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07Sources

  1. Société Française des Parfumeurs, Les familles olfactives (classification A à G, 47 sous-familles) · sfp-parfumeurs.com/fr/filiere-parfum/les-familles-olfactives-102
  2. Perfume Posse, Lolita Lempicka EdP by Annick Menardo (1997) · perfumeposse.com/2017/04/27/lolita-lempicka-edp-review/
  3. Wikipedia, Poison (perfume): Hypnotic Poison (Dior 1998, Annick Menardo; used for fact checking) · en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Poison_(perfume)
  4. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (fragrance allergen labelling) · eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj/eng
  5. Cosmeservice, Regulation 2023/1545 changes the allergen list (list of 56 added entries) · cosmeservice.com/news/regulation2023-1545-changes-the-allergen-list/

Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.

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