Một dự án của Lê Mai A Lê Mai project · go to lemai.com.vn

Egypt

Tinh dầu và nguyên liệu hương Ai Cập

Egypt is the main source of jasmine grandiflorum concrete and absolute for perfumery. Alongside jasmine come geranium, basil, bitter orange flower, violet leaf, chamomile and tagetes, mostly grown on the alluvial soils of the Nile.

There are two main zones. The Delta north of Cairo, especially Gharbia governorate, grows jasmine and violet. Upper Egypt around Beni Suef, Fayoum and Minya grows geranium, basil and chamomile.

Many solvent extraction plants sit inside the growing areas, because jasmine flowers must be extracted within hours of picking.


At a glance
JasmineAbout half of the world's jasmine for perfumery (BBC 2024)
Jasmine seasonJun–Nov, peak Jul–Sep
Geranium~3,500 ha, 200–230 t oil a year (ITC, 2015)
Violet leafEgypt is the main source of the absolute
Main regionsGharbia (Delta) · Beni Suef · Fayoum · Minya
IssueChild labour in the jasmine harvest (BBC Eye, 2024)

01Jasmine grandiflorum

Egypt grows Jasminum grandiflorum, the large five-petalled species, distinct from the jasmine sambac of India and Vietnam. Jasmine is concentrated in Gharbia governorate; the village of Shubra Beloula in Qutur district has grown it since the 1950s and harvests over 2,500 tonnes of flowers a year.

The flowers open at night. Pickers start around 3 a.m. to take freshly opened blooms before the sun rises; each gathers 3 to 5 kg in a session. The season runs June to November, busiest July to September. Flowers are extracted with hexane into concrete, then washed with alcohol into absolute.

Jasmine grandiflorum absolute has benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate and linalool as major constituents, with small but decisive amounts of indole, cis-jasmone, methyl jasmonate and methyl anthranilate.

In 2024 BBC Eye filmed children as young as five picking jasmine in Gharbia for the supply chains of major perfume brands, and showed that the industry's audit systems had not detected it. Pickers are paid about 30 Egyptian pounds per kg of flowers (2025).

↑ Top

02Geranium

Geranium (Pelargonium graveolens) is grown in Beni Suef and Fayoum, about 110 km south of Cairo. According to a 2015 International Trade Centre (ITC) report, the crop covers about 3,500 hectares and yields 200 to 230 tonnes of oil a year, involving some 8,000 households.

It is planted in October to November and the whole aerial part is cut in June, at flowering; some areas take a second cut in October to November. Egyptian oil has 25 to 36% citronellol and 10 to 18% geraniol, a ratio of about 2.4 to 1. Chinese oil has a much higher ratio. The marker for Egyptian oil is 10-epi-gamma-eudesmol, about 3 to 6%.

↑ Top

03Basil

Egyptian basil (Ocimum basilicum) is grown in Beni Suef, Minya and Assiut. Egyptian oil is of the linalool type: linalool is the largest constituent, with estragole (methyl chavicol) lower and variable by area. A study comparing samples from three governorates reported linalool, estragole, methyl cinnamate and eucalyptol as the main constituents.

Chemotype matters for users. Estragole is restricted by IFRA; estragole-type basil oils (Comoros, Vietnam) and linalool-type oils (Egypt, Europe) are not interchangeable.

↑ Top

04Bitter orange flower

Egypt, Tunisia and Morocco are the three main sources of bitter orange flower (Citrus aurantium) for perfumery. Flowers are picked in March to April. They yield neroli oil by steam distillation, with orange flower water as a by-product, or orange flower absolute by solvent extraction.

Neroli and orange flower absolute smell clearly different: neroli is lighter and greener, rich in linalool and monoterpenes; the absolute is heavier and sweeter, with more methyl anthranilate and indole. A 2011 analysis of Egyptian neroli oil found linalool to be its largest constituent.

↑ Top

05Violet leaf and chamomile

Violet leaf absolute is solvent-extracted from the leaves of Viola odorata grown in the Nile Delta. Egypt is the main source of this absolute. Its cold green, cucumber-like scent comes from (2E,6Z)-nona-2,6-dienal, known as violet leaf aldehyde; the molecule is present at low levels but has a very low odour threshold. Violet leaf absolute does not smell of violet flowers; that scent comes from ionones.

German chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) is grown in Fayoum and Beni Suef, mainly for export as dried flowers for tea. Part of the crop is distilled into a deep blue oil, coloured by chamazulene that forms from matricin during distillation.

↑ Top

06Harvest calendar

Plant Botanical Area Season Part Marker
Jasmine grandiflorumJasminum grandiflorumGharbia (Qutur, Shubra Beloula)Jun–Nov, peak Jul–SepFlowerbenzyl acetate, linalool, benzyl benzoate
GeraniumPelargonium graveolensBeni Suef, FayoumJune; second cutting Oct–NovWhole aerial plantcitronellol 25–36%, geraniol 10–18%, 10-epi-gamma-eudesmol 3–6%
BasilOcimum basilicumBeni Suef, Minya, AssiutSeveral cuttings (months not verified)Leaves, topslinalool
Bitter orange flowerCitrus aurantiumDelta and Upper EgyptMar–AprFlowerlinalool (neroli)
Violet leafViola odorataNile DeltaNot verifiedLeaf(2E,6Z)-nonadienal
German chamomileMatricaria chamomillaFayoum, Beni SuefSpring (months not verified)Flower headschamazulene, bisabolol
↑ Top

07In the library

Jasmine grandiflorum and jasmine sambac · Jasmine · Jasmine sambacTwo species, two scents
Geranium · · Rose damaskCitronellol, geraniol; compared with rose
Basil types · Basil linalool ct · Basil estragole ct · Basil methyl cinnamate ctChemotype decides how it is used
Bitter orange flower · Neroli · Orange flower · Orange flower water · Orange leafNeroli, absolute, orange flower water, petitgrain
Violet leaf, chamomile, tagetes · Violet leaf · Chamomile german · TagetOther Egyptian sources
Active compound · Benzyl acetate · Linalool · Citronellol beta · Geraniol · Estragole · Jasmone z · ChamazuleneBenzyl acetate · linalool · citronellol · geraniol · estragole · cis-jasmone · chamazulene
↑ Top

08Sources

  1. BBC Eye, via Euronews (29/5/2024): Luxury perfumes from Lancôme and Aerin linked to child labour · euronews.com/business/2024/05/29/luxury-perfumes-from-lancome-and-aerin-linked-t
  2. Business & Human Rights Resource Centre: Egypt, perfume companies linked to child labour in jasmine farms · business-humanrights.org/en/latest-news/egypt-perfume-companies-linked-to-child-
  3. Egyptian Streets (29/9/2025): Shubra Beloula, the Egyptian village behind the world's perfumes · egyptianstreets.com/2025/09/29/shubra-beloula-the-tiny-egyptian-village-behind-t
  4. Tisserand Institute: Geranium oil, history and cultivation (citing ITC Market Insider 2015) · tisserandinstitute.org/geranium-oil-history-cultivation/
  5. PMC6273689: Comparative study of essential oils extracted from Egyptian basil leaves (hydrodistillation and SFME) · pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6273689/
  6. Food Science and Human Wellness (2019): Essential oils of sweet basil from Assiut, Minia and Beni Suef · sciopen.com/article/10.1016/j.fshw.2019.07.004
  7. Bonaccorsi et al. (2011), Natural Product Communications: Composition of Egyptian neroli oil · doi.org/10.1177/1934578x1100600723
  8. Biolandes: Orange blossom in Morocco and Tunisia · biolandes.com/biolandes-livre-neroli.php?voyage=o&lg=en
  9. The Good Scents Company: violet leaf absolute Egypt · thegoodscentscompany.com/data/ab1101311.html
  10. Scientific Reports (2026): Flower volatiles of four Jasminum species growing in Egypt · nature.com/articles/s41598-026-39688-w

Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.

↑ Top