Floral Chypre

The floral layer is usually rose and jasmine, sometimes with orange flower, tuberose, ylang-ylang or orris. Rose brings phenylethyl alcohol, geraniol and citronellol; jasmine brings benzyl acetate and indole. The base is still oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli, usually with vetiver and musks.

Clinique's Aromatics Elixir (1971, Bernard Chant) is often placed between D5 Aromatic Chypre and D7 Floral Chypre: a large rose and jasmine layer over patchouli, moss and herbs such as clary sage and Roman chamomile.

Relevant rules include the prohibition of atranol and chloroatranol in oakmoss under Regulation (EU) 2017/1410, and the naming of rose oil and jasmine oil and extracts on the allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545.

The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.

D7 is the Chypre branch closest to the Floral family. As oakmoss was sharply reduced after 2017, many scents once called floral Chypres now have a structure close to a bouquet on patchouli. The difference lies in how much dryness and bitterness remains in the base.

This is the easiest Chypre branch to build with natural materials: rose absolute, jasmine or jasmine sambac absolute in the heart, FCF bergamot at the top, low-atranol oakmoss, labdanum and patchouli in the base.

The balance must keep the flowers from hiding the bitterness of the moss, otherwise the scent slides into the Floral family. Check the EU allergen list and IFRA limits. This page gives no formula percentages.