Floral Marine is subfamily B8 of the Floral family in the SFP table. The bouquet is usually clear and light: lotus, lily of the valley, lily, jasmine. Beside it sits a watery note: sea breeze, watermelon rind, damp air.
The branch is tied to synthetic molecules. Calone was discovered by Pfizer in 1966 but became common in perfumery only from the 1990s.
Issey Miyake's L'Eau d'Issey (1992), composed by Jacques Cavallier, is often cited as the landmark of the branch: Calone set in a clear bouquet, beside lotus and melon notes.
The key molecules: Calone gives watermelon, sea breeze and seashell; Helional gives a green watery note with a faint hay facet; Floralozone gives air after rain; Melonal gives melon and cucumber skin. These molecules are very strong and used in small amounts. Hedione is often used to make the flowers feel airy.
Rules to note: Helional is restricted by a dedicated IFRA Standard; Calone, Floralozone and Melonal have no dedicated IFRA Standard as of Amendment 51. Rose, jasmine and ylang-ylang oils and extracts are named individually on the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545; new products placed on the EU market after 31 July 2026 must be labelled according to it.
The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.
B8 approaches the marine woody branch of the Woody family when the woods grow, and A1 when citrus dominates.
| Layer | Materials |
|---|---|
| Top | Bergamot, Lime (distilled), Calone, Melonal |
| Middle | Jasmine, Damask rose, Violet leaf, Helional, Floralozone, Hedione |
| Base | Cedarwood (Virginian), Sandalwood, Galaxolide |
No natural material gives the Calone effect. A natural version can only suggest water: violet leaf gives damp leaf and cucumber; distilled lime and petitgrain give clarity; seaweed absolute (not in this library) gives kelp and iodine.
Flowers should stay light: jasmine and rose in small doses, neroli. Check IFRA limits and the EU allergen list for each material. This page gives no formula percentages.
| Name | House | Year | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| L'Eau d'Issey | Issey Miyake | 1992 | Jacques Cavallier. Calone in a clear floral bouquet. |
| Marine and watery molecules · Calone · Helional · Floralozone · Melonal | The signature of B8. |
| Hedione, Galaxolide · Hedione · Galaxolide | Airy florals and a clean base. |
| Violet leaf, distilled lime, petitgrain, neroli · Violet leaf · Lime distilled · Orange leaf · Neroli | Suggests water and clarity. |
| Hoa · Jasmine · Rose damask | Small doses. |
Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.
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