Aromatic Citrus is subfamily A3 of the Hesperidic family in the SFP table. It combines citrus peel oils with herbs of the mint family and other aromatic plants: lavender, rosemary, basil, sage, mint, thyme, tarragon.
The classic Eau de Cologne formula already had rosemary and lavender alongside citrus. A3 is where the herbal part grows enough to become half of the scent, not a detail.
In 1966 Edmond Roudnitska composed Eau Sauvage for Dior, combining lemon, bergamot, basil and rosemary with Hedione (methyl dihydrojasmonate), a transparent jasmine-like molecule. It was the first commercially successful perfume to use Hedione and is often cited as the landmark of the branch.
In composition, citrus brings limonene, citral and linalyl acetate; herbs bring linalool, 1,8-cineole (rosemary, eucalyptus), camphor (rosemary, sage), methyl chavicol or estragole (basil, tarragon), menthol (mint), thymol and carvacrol (thyme). Chemotype differences, such as linalool basil versus estragole basil, produce very different odours.
Rules to note: estragole and methyl eugenol in basil and tarragon are restricted; camphor, linalyl acetate, menthol, peppermint oil and spearmint oil are named on the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545; cold-pressed citrus oils are under IFRA phototoxicity limits in leave-on products.
The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.
| Layer | Materials |
|---|---|
| Top | Lemon (expressed), Bergamot, Grapefruit, Citral |
| Middle | Rosemary, Lavender, Basil (linalool CT), Clary sage, Spearmint, Thyme linalool, 1,8-Cineole |
| Base | Vetiver, Oakmoss, Cedarwood (Virginian) |
This branch can be built fully with natural materials: lemon, FCF bergamot and grapefruit at the top; rosemary, lavender, linalool basil and linalool thyme in the heart; vetiver and cedar in the base. Neroli and petitgrain can link citrus to herbs.
Choosing softer chemotypes (linalool basil rather than estragole, linalool thyme rather than thymol) keeps the scent gentle and reduces regulatory issues. Check IFRA limits and the EU allergen list. This page gives no formula percentages.
| Name | House | Year | Note |
|---|---|---|---|
| Eau Sauvage | Christian Dior | 1966 | Edmond Roudnitska. Citrus, basil, rosemary with Hedione. |
| Herbal materials · Cineole 1 8 · Camphor · Estragole · Thymol · Menthol | Varies by chemotype. |
| Cam chanh · Lemon expressed · Bergamot fcf · Grapefruit | Top layer. |
| Aromatic · Rosemary · Lavender · Basil linalool ct · Thyme linalool · Clary sage · Spearmint | The herbal half of A3. |
Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.
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