Một dự án của Lê Mai A Lê Mai project · go to lemai.com.vn

Woody Citrus

Cam chanh gỗ: vỏ cam chanh đặt trên vetiver, tuyết tùng và gỗ khô

Woody Citrus is subfamily A5 of the Hesperidic family in the SFP table. Citrus opens and leads, but the base is clearly woody: vetiver, cedar, sometimes sandalwood or patchouli.

The woods here are usually dry and bright rather than sweet. The contrast between juicy citrus peel and dry wood is the mark of the branch.


01Structure and materials

Terre d'Hermès (2006) by Jean-Claude Ellena is often cited for this style: orange and grapefruit at the top, pepper and geranium in the heart, vetiver, cedar, patchouli and benzoin in the base. Iso E Super, a transparent dry woody molecule introduced by IFF in 1973, plays a large role in the base.

In composition: citrus brings limonene; grapefruit brings nootkatone, the characteristic grapefruit molecule. Vetiver gives earthy, smoky, damp wood through khusimol and vetivone; Virginia cedarwood is rich in cedrol and thujopsene.

Rules to note: cold-pressed citrus oils such as bergamot, expressed lemon and grapefruit are under IFRA phototoxicity limits in leave-on products; FCF bergamot and distilled lime contain far less furocoumarin. Juniperus virginiana oil (Virginia cedarwood), Atlas cedar oil and extract, and tetramethyl acetyloctahydronaphthalenes (Iso E Super) are named on the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545; IFRA has a dedicated restriction Standard for Iso E Super (OTNE).

The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.

↑ Top

02Place in the family

A5 is close to A6 Floral Woody Citrus, differing by the lack of a clear floral layer. When the woods dominate, the scent moves to the Woody family.

↑ Top

03Structure

Layer Materials
TopSweet orange, Grapefruit, Bergamot, Yuzu, Nootkatone
MiddleBlack pepper, Geranium, Petitgrain (orange leaf)
BaseVetiver, Cedarwood (Virginian), Atlas cedarwood, Patchouli, Iso E Super
↑ Top

04A natural approach

A natural version: grapefruit, sweet orange, FCF bergamot and yuzu at the top; a little black pepper or geranium in the heart; vetiver, Virginia or Atlas cedar and guaiacwood in the base.

Without Iso E Super the natural woods are denser and darker; amyris and cedar help keep a dry, bright feel. Check IFRA limits and the EU allergen list for each material. This page gives no formula percentages.

↑ Top

05Landmarks

Name House Year Note
Terre d'HermèsHermès2006Jean-Claude Ellena. Orange and grapefruit over vetiver, cedar and Iso E Super.
↑ Top

06Related molecules

Citrus constituents · Limonene · NootkatoneLimonene, nootkatone.
Woody materials · Cedrol alpha · Thujopsene · Khusimol · Vetivone alpha · Iso e superCedar, vetiver, Iso E Super.
↑ Top

07In the library

Cam chanh · Grapefruit · Orange sweet · Bergamot fcf · YuzuTop layer.
Woods · Vetiver · Cedarwood virginian · Cedarwood atlas · Guaiacwood · AmyrisThe base layer of A5.
↑ Top

08Sources

  1. Société Française des Parfumeurs, Les familles olfactives (classification A à G, 47 sous-familles) · sfp-parfumeurs.com/fr/filiere-parfum/les-familles-olfactives-102
  2. Now Smell This, Terre d'Hermès fragrance review (2006) · nstperfume.com/2006/03/02/fragrance-review-terre-dhermes-by-hermes/
  3. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (fragrance allergen labelling) · eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj/eng
  4. Cosmeservice, Regulation 2023/1545 changes the allergen list (list of 56 added entries) · cosmeservice.com/news/regulation2023-1545-changes-the-allergen-list/

Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.

↑ Top