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Fruity Fougère

Fougère trái cây: oải hương và coumarin với nốt táo, dứa, quả mọng

Fruity Fougère is subfamily C6 (Fougère Fruitée) of the Fougère family in the SFP table. It keeps the lavender, geranium, coumarin and wood frame and adds fruity notes at the top or in the heart: apple, pineapple, pear, berries, plum, sometimes sweet mandarin.

Most fruity notes in perfume are not taken from fruit. Apple, pineapple and pear are not commercial sources of essential oil, so perfumers build these notes from esters and other synthetic molecules. C6 therefore relies on synthetic chemistry more than the herb-based Fougère branches.


01Structure and materials

Common molecules for fruity notes include ethyl 2-methylbutyrate for ripe apple, hexyl acetate for pear and green apple, Manzanate for crisp green apple, Fructone for apple and pineapple, and allyl cyclohexylpropionate for ripe pineapple that lasts longer than other pineapple esters. These molecules evaporate quickly, so they sit at the top next to lavender and bergamot.

The heart can add fruity notes from natural materials: blackcurrant bud (cassis) for a green berry note with a sulphurous facet, davana for dried fruit and liquor, osmanthus for apricot. The base remains coumarin, oakmoss or woods, so that the fruit does not drift into the Floral or Amber families. This page has not found an example with firm enough sources, so it names no perfume.

Allyl cyclohexylpropionate has its own IFRA restriction Standard, and all allyl esters are also subject to a specification Standard on free allyl alcohol. Coumarin is a labelled allergen in the EU and has its own IFRA Standard. Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 adds lavender oil, linalyl acetate, geranium oil and bergamot, lemon and bitter orange peel oils to the expanded allergen list.

The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. This page names no perfume as an official SFP placement.

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02Place in the family

C6 is the least described branch of the Fougère family in public sources. The Fougère family page in this section notes that from the late 1980s many Fougères reduced oakmoss and added marine and green fruity notes alongside dihydromyrcenol; the border between C6 and C5 is therefore unclear. When fruit and vanilla rise together, the structure moves towards C3 Sweet Amber Fougère.

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03Structure

Layer Materials
TopLavender, Bergamot, Mandarin, Manzanate, Allyl cyclohexylpropionate
MiddleGeranium, Blackcurrant bud, Davana, Osmanthus
BaseTonka bean, Oakmoss, Vetiver, Coumarin
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04A natural approach

A natural version struggles to build apple or pineapple, as no common natural material matches them. Blackcurrant bud, davana, osmanthus, mandarin and FCF bergamot can suggest fruit over a frame of lavender, geranium, tonka and low-atranol oakmoss.

Blackcurrant bud diffuses very strongly and has a sulphurous facet, so it stays in a supporting role. Coumarin from tonka must be calculated against IFRA limits. This page gives no formula percentages.

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05Related molecules

Fruity note molecules · Manzanate · Fructone · Allyl cyclohexylpropionate · Ethyl 2 methylbutyrate · Hexyl acetateApple, pear, pineapple.
Khung Fougère · Coumarin · Linalool · Linalyl acetateCoumarin and lavender.
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06In the library

Natural sources of fruity notes · Blackcurrant bud · Davana · Osmanthus · Mandarin · Bergamot fcfTop and heart.
Khung Fougère · Lavender · Geranium · Tonka · Oakmoss · VetiverKeeps the structure within the family.
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07Sources

  1. Société Française des Parfumeurs, Les familles olfactives (classification A à G, 47 sous-familles) · sfp-parfumeurs.com/fr/filiere-parfum/les-familles-olfactives-102
  2. IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment: Index of IFRA Standards (allyl 3-cyclohexylpropionate restriction; allyl esters specification; coumarin) · d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/Standards-Documentation/ifra-51st-amendment-i
  3. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products (Annexes II and III) · eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2009/1223/oj/eng
  4. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 (fragrance allergen labelling) · eur-lex.europa.eu/eli/reg/2023/1545/oj/eng
  5. Cosmeservice, Regulation 2023/1545 changes the allergen list (list of 56 added entries) · cosmeservice.com/news/regulation2023-1545-changes-the-allergen-list/
  6. IFRA Standard, Oakmoss extracts (Amendment 49) · d3t14p1xronwr0.cloudfront.net/docs/standards/IFRA_STD_067.pdf

Updated 09/2026. Figures follow the year stated in each source.

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