Sweet Amber

The sweet base of F1 rests on two main molecules. Vanillin, synthesised from 1874 by Tiemann and Haarmann, gives the vanilla note; ethyl vanillin is several times stronger. Coumarin gives sweet hay. Guerlain's Shalimar (1925) set bergamot over a large vanilla and balsam base; it is often cited as the landmark of the whole Amber family.

In 1992 Mugler's Angel, composed by Olivier Cresp, used ethyl maltol, a molecule smelling of caramel and candy floss, with chocolate and vanilla over a heavy patchouli base. Auparfum places Angel in the Amber family in a gourmand style and notes that it opened the gourmand style that has been common for the thirty years since.

Vanillin, patchouli oil, and Myroxylon pereirae oil and extracts are named on the expanded allergen list of Regulation (EU) 2023/1545. Coumarin, benzyl benzoate and benzyl cinnamate were already labelled. Crude Peru balsam must not be used under the IFRA Standard.

The SFP website publishes only subfamily names; perfume lists per subfamily are in the printed Classification officielle des parfums. Perfumes named here are commonly cited examples, not official SFP placements.

F1 is the amber branch most accessible with natural materials: vanilla absolute or CO2, tonka, Siam benzoin, Tolu balsam, labdanum. Siam benzoin is vanillic, Sumatra benzoin drier and more resinous. FCF bergamot at the top provides contrast.

The caramel and candy note of ethyl maltol has no natural equivalent; cocoa or coffee absolute, or fenugreek, can suggest part of the roasted, burnt-sugar note. Total coumarin must be calculated and the EU allergen list checked. This page gives no formula percentages.