Nutmeg CO2 extract

Freshly grated nutmeg, warm wood, a little camphor, light citrus, sweet. Rounder and warmer than the oil; the total extract has a nut-butter note.

Safrole is present in small amounts; IFRA has a prohibition and restriction standard for safrole, isosafrole and dihydrosafrole that counts contributions from natural oils. Methyl eugenol, if present, is IFRA-restricted (2023).

Myristicin and elemicin are present. The total extract carries much fat (nutmeg butter). Store dark, sealed and cool.

Myristica fragrans is an evergreen tree native to the Banda Islands, Indonesia. The ripe fruit splits to reveal a seed wrapped in a red aril called mace. The seed is dried and cracked to obtain the kernel.

Indonesia and Grenada are the two main exporters. Grenada shows a nutmeg on its national flag. East Indian (Indonesian) and West Indian (Grenadian) material differ in profile; the library has matching oil pages.

CO2 extraction uses compressed carbon dioxide as the solvent. Under subcritical conditions CO2 takes mainly the volatile fraction, giving a product called a select extract. Under supercritical conditions it also takes lipids and non-volatiles, giving a total extract. On depressurisation the CO2 evaporates completely and leaves no solvent residue.

Nutmeg kernel is about one third fat, mainly trimyristin. A total CO2 extract carries this fat and can be semi-solid at room temperature. The select extract is lighter and easier to use in fine fragrance.

In perfumery nutmeg CO2 serves spicy, woody and masculine accords. It pairs with rose, lavender, cedarwood and orange. Dosage must account for safrole and methyl eugenol under IFRA.

The Banda Islands were the world's only nutmeg source until the 18th century and a focus of trade conflict between European companies.