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Mastic (lentisque) absolute

Nhũ hương Chios absolute (lentisque)

Pistacia lentiscus

Lentisque absolute, Lentisk absolute, Mastic resinoid

Anacardiaceae · Lá và cành non; nhựa mastic cho resinoid · Leaves and twigs; mastic resin for resinoid · Solvent-extracted (absolute from leaves; resinoid from resin)


Aroma

Green resin, balsamic, a little ambery, with dry leaf, pine and fruit. Leaf absolute leans toward labdanum, warm and dry; the resin resinoid is brighter and more pine-like.


Safety

Mastic absolute has no dedicated standard in the IFRA 51 index. α-Pinene and myrcene are terpenes that oxidise easily.

Limonene, when present, is an EU-labelled allergen above threshold. Store dark, sealed and cool.


Usage guidelines

Note
Base
Form
Leaf absolute (lentisque), resin resinoid
Role
Dry amber base for chypre, leather
Appellation
Masticha Chiou (PDO EU) Masticha Chiou (EU PDO)
Storage
Dark, sealed, cool

Chemistry

Key constituents
α-Pinenemajor (resin)
β-Myrcenepresent
Limonenepresent
β-Caryophyllenepresent

Origins

Morocco · Spain · Greece (Chios)


Notes

Pistacia lentiscus is an evergreen shrub found throughout the Mediterranean. On Chios (Greece) a form of the tree is tapped for mastic, pale yellow translucent resin tears used as chewing gum, spice and liqueur.

Masticha Chiou is an EU Protected Designation of Origin. In 2014 UNESCO inscribed the know-how of cultivating mastic on Chios on its intangible cultural heritage list.

Perfumery uses two distinct forms. Lentisque absolute is solvent-extracted from leaves and twigs; it smells dry and ambery, near labdanum. Mastic resinoid is extracted from Chios resin; it is bright, pine-like and balsamic.

An absolute is made in two steps. The raw material is extracted with a non-polar solvent such as hexane to give a waxy concrete. The concrete is then washed with ethanol, chilled to precipitate waxes, filtered and freed of alcohol. What remains is the absolute.

In perfumery lentisque absolute serves chypre, leather and dry amber bases. It links labdanum, oakmoss, patchouli and green notes. The resin resinoid suits incense accords and colognes.

Pistacia lentiscus shares its genus with the pistachio (Pistacia vera), in the cashew family.

Lentisque absolute is usually a greenish-brown paste. It is useful to smell beside labdanum: lentisque is greener and drier, labdanum sweeter and more balsamic. In candles and soap it gives a lasting dry resin note. Chios mastic resin also yields its own paler resinoid.


Sources

  1. IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment: Index of IFRA Standards (notified 30 June 2023)
  2. UNESCO, Know-how of cultivating mastic on the island of Chios (2014)
  3. EU eAmbrosia register: Masticha Chiou PDO
  4. The Good Scents Company Information System, material entries
  5. Plants of the World Online, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew (accepted names)