Rosemary absolute

Dry rosemary, soft camphor, pine resin, bitter herb, slightly balsamic. Rounder and warmer than the oil; the cool cineole note recedes.

Rosemary absolute has no dedicated standard in the IFRA 51 index. Camphor and 1,8-cineole are present; limonene and linalool, if present, are EU-labelled allergens above threshold.

Store dark, sealed and cool.

Rosemary is an aromatic Mediterranean shrub. In 2017 taxonomists moved it into Salvia as Salvia rosmarinus. Morocco, Tunisia and Spain are major sources of oil and extracts.

Rosemary has several chemotypes: cineole-rich (Morocco, Tunisia), camphor-rich (Spain) and verbenone-rich (Corsica, France). The source chemotype shapes the absolute.

An absolute is made in two steps. The raw material is extracted with a non-polar solvent such as hexane to give a waxy concrete. The concrete is then washed with ethanol, chilled to precipitate waxes, filtered and freed of alcohol. What remains is the absolute.

Rosemary extracts have another use: extracts rich in carnosic acid and carnosol are authorised as food antioxidants in the EU under E392. These are usually deodorised and not used for fragrance.

In perfumery rosemary absolute serves fougère, cologne, herbal and chypre accords. Warmer and rounder than the oil, it suits the heart and base more than the top. It pairs with lavender, thyme, cedarwood and oakmoss.

Rosemary absolute is usually a greenish-brown paste. On evaluation camphor and cineole appear first, then give way to dry herb and balsamic notes. Compared with the oil it suits the heart and base rather than the top. In soap and candles it gives a longer-lasting herbal note than the oil. The source chemotype should be stated on the certificate.