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Vetiver CO2 extract

Hương bài CO2

Chrysopogon zizanioides (L.) Roberty (syn. Vetiveria zizanioides)

Vetiver SCO2, Vetiver root CO2, Khus CO2

Poaceae · Rễ đã rửa và sấy · Washed and dried roots · Supercritical CO2 extraction of dried roots


Aroma

Damp earthy root, dry wood, roasted nut. Grassy with a light grapefruit touch. Less smoky than the oil, closer to the fresh root.


Safety

Vetiver has no dedicated standard in the 51st Amendment of the IFRA Standards. Acetylated vetiver oil, an acetylated derivative of the oil, is restricted by IFRA (2020); the CO2 extract is not that derivative.

Chrysopogon zizanioides is not named in the EU fragrance allergen list.

CO2 extraction leaves no organic solvent residue. Store dark, sealed and cool; the product is very thick and may need gentle warming before weighing.


Usage guidelines

Note
Base
Form
CO2 extract; distilled oil is the common form
Role
Earthy woody base for chypre, woody, fougère
Limits
No dedicated IFRA standard
Storage
Dark, sealed, cool

Chemistry

Key constituents
Khusimolmajor sesquiterpene alcohol
α-Vetivonekey odorant
β-Vetivonekey odorant
Zizanoic (khusenic) acidpresent, higher in CO2 extracts
Nootkatonetrace

Origins

Haiti · Indonesia (Java) · India · Réunion


Notes

Chrysopogon zizanioides is a large clumping grass with deep fibrous roots, native to India. In Vietnam it is called cỏ hương bài or vetiver grass and is planted against erosion. The roots are the aromatic part. They are dug about a year and a half after planting, washed and dried.

Haiti is the largest current source of vetiver oil, followed by Java (Indonesia), India and Réunion. Each region gives its own profile: Haiti clean and fresh, Java smokier and earthier.

Vetiver oil is distilled for a very long time, often many hours up to tens of hours, because its aromatics are heavy. This gives a light smoky tone. CO2 extraction works at lower temperature, keeps an odour closer to the dried root and retains acids such as zizanoic acid, so the product is thicker than the oil.

Vetiver's scent comes from a complex mixture of sesquiterpenes. Khusimol is a common sesquiterpene alcohol. α-Vetivone and β-vetivone are regarded as key odorants. Nootkatone occurs in traces.

In perfumery, vetiver CO2 is an earthy woody base for chypres, woody accords and fougères. It links well with patchouli, sandalwood, oakmoss and citrus. The library already has a vetiver oil page; this page records the CO2 extract.


Sources

  1. IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment: Index of IFRA Standards (notified 30 June 2023)
  2. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Reg. 1223/2009 on labelling of fragrance allergens
  3. The Good Scents Company Information System: vetiveria zizanioides root extract
  4. Tisserand R., Young R. Essential Oil Safety, 2nd ed., Churchill Livingstone, 2014
  5. Plants of the World Online, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew (accepted names)