Angelica root CO2 extract

Earthy root, warm musk, pepper, a little herb and dry musk. The CO2 extract shows the musky base more clearly than the oil, with less fresh terpene at the top.

Angelica root oil is IFRA-restricted (2020) because of furocoumarin phototoxicity. A total CO2 extract can carry more non-volatile furocoumarins than the oil; a certificate of analysis is needed and the IFRA standard on furocoumarin-containing oils applies.

In leave-on products exposed to sunlight, dosage must follow IFRA limits. Store dark, sealed and cool.

Angelica archangelica is a large Nordic umbellifer grown in France, Belgium, the Netherlands and Poland. Roots are lifted in autumn, washed and dried. Seed and stem are also used for flavour, but the musky note is concentrated in the root.

The musky character of angelica root comes from macrocyclic lactones such as 15-pentadecanolide, the same family as synthetic macrocyclic musks. They occur in tiny amounts but define the base.

CO2 extraction uses compressed carbon dioxide as the solvent. Under subcritical conditions CO2 takes mainly the volatile fraction, giving a product called a select extract. Under supercritical conditions it also takes lipids and non-volatiles, giving a total extract. On depressurisation the CO2 evaporates completely and leaves no solvent residue.

Since macrocyclic lactones are heavy and slow to evaporate, CO2 extraction retains them better than distillation. A total CO2 extract also carries furocoumarins, which is why phototoxicity must be controlled.

In perfumery angelica root gives a botanical musk, an earthy base and a peppery top. It pairs with ambrette, vetiver, orris and musks. It is also a component of liqueurs and gin.

It should not be confused with bai zhi (Angelica dahurica) in East Asian herbal medicine, a different species of the same genus.