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Olibanum resinoid

Nhũ hương resinoid (olibanum)

Boswellia sacra, Boswellia carterii, Boswellia papyrifera, Boswellia serrata

Frankincense resinoid, Olibanum absolute, Incense resinoid

Burseraceae · Gôm nhựa khô chảy ra từ vết rạch trên thân cây · Dried gum resin exuded from incisions in the bark · Solvent-extracted (ethanol or hydrocarbon) from gum resin


Aroma

Dry pine resin, lemon peel, church smoke, a light sweet resin. Deeper and longer-lasting than the distilled oil; less fresh at the top, balsamic and slightly powdery at the base.


Safety

Olibanum has no dedicated standard in the IFRA 51 index. Constituents such as limonene and linalool, when present, are counted under IFRA limits by product category and must be labelled as allergens in the EU above 0.001 percent in leave-on or 0.01 percent in rinse-off products.

Aged material oxidises in its terpene fraction. Store dark, sealed and cool with little headspace.


Usage guidelines

Note
Base
Form
Resinoid, absolute (alcohol-washed resinoid)
Role
Fixative, incense note
Solubility
Soluble in ethanol, may haze on dilution
Storage
Dark, sealed, cool

Chemistry

Key constituents
α-Pinenemajor in B. sacra and B. carterii
Limonenepresent
Octyl acetatemajor in B. papyrifera
Incensole and incensyl acetatemarker in B. papyrifera
Boswellic acids (non-volatile)present in resin

Origins

Somalia · Oman · Ethiopia, Eritrea · India


Notes

Olibanum is the gum resin of Boswellia species from dry regions: Somalia, Oman, Yemen, Ethiopia, Eritrea, Sudan and India. Harvesters cut the bark; a milky resin flows out and dries into tears. Tears are graded by colour, size and clarity.

A resinoid is a solvent extract of a dried resin or gum resin. After solvent removal it keeps both the volatile fraction and the non-volatile resin. It is therefore thick, dark, slow to evaporate and works as a fixative.

Chemistry varies by species. Boswellia sacra and B. carterii are rich in α-pinene. B. papyrifera is marked by octyl acetate and incensole. Indian B. serrata has a different terpene balance. A resinoid should therefore state species and origin.

In perfumery olibanum resinoid serves incense, amber and woody notes and helps citrus last. It appears in many amber and chypre structures. Alcohol washing and chilling give an absolute that is paler and more soluble.

Over-tapping threatens some Boswellia populations. Studies have recorded poor regeneration of B. papyrifera in Ethiopia. Traceable origin is a point to check when buying.


Sources

  1. IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment: Index of IFRA Standards (notified 30 June 2023)
  2. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Reg. 1223/2009 on labelling of fragrance allergens
  3. Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 on cosmetic products, Annexes II and III
  4. Bongers F. et al. Frankincense in peril. Nature Sustainability 2 (2019) 602–610
  5. Hamm S. et al. A chemical investigation by headspace SPME and GC–MS of volatile and semi-volatile terpenes in various olibanum samples. Phytochemistry 66 (2005) 1499–1514
  6. The Good Scents Company Information System, material entries