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Wallflower absolute

Hoa quế trúc absolute

Erysimum cheiri (L.) Crantz (syn. Cheiranthus cheiri L.)

Giroflée absolute, Cheiranthus absolute

Brassicaceae · Hoa · Flowers · Solvent-extracted (concrete, absolute)


Aroma

Sweet flower, honey, a hint of clove. Light orange flower and jasmine facets. Warm and round.


Safety

Wallflower absolute has no dedicated standard in the 51st Amendment of the IFRA Standards and is not named in the EU fragrance allergen list.

The material is very rare; products named wallflower may be reconstructions. The nature of each lot should be confirmed with the supplier.

Store dark, sealed and cool.


Usage guidelines

Note
Heart
Form
Absolute (historical, very rare)
Role
Honeyed spicy floral for spring bouquets
Limits
No dedicated IFRA standard
Storage
Dark, sealed, cool
Harvest
3, 4, 5

Notes

Erysimum cheiri is a perennial of the mustard family, native to the Mediterranean. The English name wallflower comes from its habit of growing on old stone walls. Its yellow, orange or red-brown flowers open in spring and smell strongly sweet.

Wallflower absolute was once made in small quantities in Europe. The flowers were solvent-extracted to a concrete, then processed with ethanol into an absolute. It was never a major material.

Published composition data for the absolute are scarce. This page therefore lists no specific constituents. The clove-like facet suggests eugenol, but actual levels are not confirmed.

In perfumery, wallflower belongs with spring florals that carry honey and light spice, close to carnation. The note can be rebuilt from familiar floral and spice materials.

Wallflowers are grown as bedding and cut flowers in Europe. Cultivars range from lemon yellow to wine red, and scent varies by cultivar.

This page records wallflower absolute as a rare material. The whole plant contains cardiac glycosides, which is why it is regarded as toxic if eaten; this is unrelated to fragrance regulation.


Sources

  1. IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment: Index of IFRA Standards (notified 30 June 2023)
  2. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Reg. 1223/2009 on labelling of fragrance allergens
  3. The Good Scents Company Information System: wallflower absolute
  4. Plants of the World Online, Royal Botanic Gardens Kew (accepted names)