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Sea buckthorn CO2 extract

Hắc mai biển CO2 extract

Hippophae rhamnoides

Seabuckthorn pulp CO2, Seabuckthorn seed CO2, Sea buckthorn berry oil (CO2)

Elaeagnaceae · Thịt quả, hạt, hoặc cả quả · Berry pulp, seeds, or whole berries · Supercritical CO2 extraction (total type), separately from pulp or seed


Aroma

Tart fruit, vegetable oil, hay, a hint of carrot and butter. Pulp grades are deep red-orange with a ripe-fruit note. Not a fragrance material.


Safety

Sea buckthorn CO2 extract is a fatty oil, has no dedicated standard in the IFRA 51 index and is not named in the allergen list of EU Regulation 2023/1545.

Pulp grades are rich in carotenoids and can stain skin, fabric and surfaces when used neat. Seed oil is rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids and oxidises readily. Store dark, sealed and cool.


Usage guidelines

Note
Base
Form
CO2 total from pulp, seed, or whole berry
Role
Cosmetic lipid, natural orange colour
Pulp vs seed
Pulp: palmitoleic, carotenoids. Seed: linoleic, linolenic
Storage
Dark, sealed, cool
Harvest
8, 9, 10

Chemistry

Key constituents
Palmitoleic acidmajor in pulp oil (indicative 20 to 40%)
Palmitic acidmajor in pulp oil
Linoleic acidmajor in seed oil (indicative 30 to 40%)
α-Linolenic acidmajor in seed oil (indicative 20 to 35%)
Carotenoids (β-carotene, zeaxanthin)present, high in pulp oil

Origins

China · Mongolia, Russia · Germany, Finland


Notes

Sea buckthorn is a cold- and salt-tolerant thorny shrub native from Europe through Central Asia to China and Mongolia. China has the largest area of sea buckthorn, wild and planted. The small orange berries ripen from late summer into autumn and cling to the thorny branches, so harvest is laborious; in many places whole branches are cut and frozen to release the berries.

The berries give two different oils. Pulp oil is rich in palmitoleic acid, an unsaturated fatty acid uncommon in plant oils, together with palmitic acid and abundant carotenoids. Seed oil is rich in linoleic and alpha-linolenic acids. Labels should therefore state which part was extracted.

A German CO2 producer lists several grades: pulp, seed, whole berry, organic and semi-solid lipid fractions. CO2 extraction leaves no solvent and keeps carotenoids at low temperature.

Sea buckthorn is not a fragrance material. It is in the library because it is used in skin care and soap, where pulp oil gives a natural orange colour. In soap the carotenoids can fade in light, and seed oil turns rancid easily at high proportions.

Fatty acid proportions vary with subspecies, region and ripeness. Figures in the constituent table are indicative ranges from the scientific literature.


Sources

  1. IFRA Standards, 51st Amendment: Index of IFRA Standards (notified 30 June 2023)
  2. Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Reg. 1223/2009 on labelling of fragrance allergens
  3. FLAVEX Naturextrakte, product sheet: Seabuckthorn Pulp CO2-to extract
  4. FLAVEX Naturextrakte, product sheet: Seabuckthorn Seed CO2-to extract
  5. Yang B., Kallio H. Fatty acid composition of lipids in sea buckthorn (Hippophaë rhamnoides L.) berries of different origins. J. Agric. Food Chem. 49 (2001) 1939–1947