合成ムスク
Xạ hương thay thế (xạ hương tổng hợp)
Không áp dụng (tổ hợp phân tử tổng hợp và nguyên liệu thực vật)
Synthetic musks, White musks, Musk reconstitution, Tonkin musk replacer
Clean, warm, like skin and fresh laundry. By class: macrocyclics soft, faintly animalic and powdery; polycyclics sweet, floral and powdery; nitro musks sweet and slightly dusty. Very slow to evaporate.
IFRA 51 prohibits musk ambrette (2006), musk moskene and musk tibetene (2008) and musk xylene (2009); musk ketone is under a specification standard (2010). In the EU musk ketone is in Annex III with limits by product type; musk xylene is listed in REACH Annex XIV and requires authorisation.
EU Regulation 2023/1545 adds hexamethylindanopyran (Galaxolide) and hexadecanolactone to the allergens that must be labelled above 0.001 percent in leave-on or 0.01 percent in rinse-off products.
Many people cannot smell certain musks (specific anosmia), so evaluation by several people is advisable. Store sealed and cool.
| Muscone (synthetic) | macrocyclic ketone |
| Pentadecanolide (Exaltolide) | macrocyclic lactone |
| Ethylene brassylate | macrocyclic diester |
| Galaxolide | polycyclic |
| Musk ketone | nitro musk, restricted |
| Helvetolide | alicyclic |
| Ambrettolide | plant-origin macrocyclic lactone |
True musk is the secretion of the musk pod of the male musk deer (genus Moschus). Himalayan musk deer populations are in CITES Appendix I; other species are in Appendix II. International trade is tightly controlled, and natural musk is almost absent from commercial perfumery.
The first synthetic musk was found by chance: in 1888 Albert Baur obtained a musky nitro compound while working on explosives. Nitro musks, including musk ketone, musk xylene and musk ambrette, were widely used in the first half of the twentieth century. Most were later banned or restricted over toxicity and environmental persistence concerns.
In 1926 Leopold Ružička determined the structures of muscone from musk and civetone from civet, both macrocyclic ketones. This led to the macrocyclic musks, ketones and lactones such as pentadecanolide and ethylene brassylate. Polycyclic musks, with Galaxolide introduced by IFF in 1965 and Tonalide, became common low-cost musks in detergents. Alicyclic musks such as Helvetolide and Romandolide came later.
Plants also yield musks: ambrette seed contains ambrettolide and angelica root contains pentadecanolide. These materials are costly and used in small amounts.
In perfumery synthetic musks form the base of most modern perfumes. Many formulas blend several musks to compensate for people who cannot smell a given molecule.